The Shirt and Jersey Fabric Blocks

The blacks are drafted for jersey fabric or to be used as base patterns for knitwear. The first instructions given are for close fitting tee shirts or standard knitwear: the instructions in brackets are the extra measurements required to construct blocks for easy fitting tee shirts and knitwear.

For close fitting jersey garments, construct the body sections as instructed but draft the sections without any case allowance.

The sleeve length for knitwear can be a “straight arm” measurement; the fabric will stretch to allow arm movement. The sleeve length is therefore reduced by 4-5 cm approx. this is dependent on fabric stretch and relaxation.

The seam allowance allowed is 1 cm.

MEASUREMENT REQUIRED TO DRAFT THE BLOCKS

 (e.g. Size Medium)

Refer to the size chart (paper 12) for SMALL.

Medium, Large, X-large sizes.

Chest                                                   100cm

Half back                                            20cm

Natural Waist Length                            44.8cm

Scye depth                                           2436cm

Neck size                                             41cm

Sleeve size                                            65cm

Close Waist one piece sleeve                17.6cm

Body Sections

Square down and across from 0.

0-1             Natural waist length plus 1 cm; square across.

0-2             Finished length; square across.

0-3             Scye depth length; square across.

0-4             ½ measurement 0-3; square across.

0-5             ¼ measurement 0-4; square across.

0-6             ¼ neck size minus 1 cm; square up.

0-7             1.5 cm; draw in back neck curve.

0-8             Half back plus 1 cm (1.5 cm); square up to 9 and 10.

10-11     0.75 cm; join 7-11.

03-12     ¼ chest plus 2.5 cm (5 cm); square down to 13. Draw in armhole curve from 11 through 9-12.

0-14         ¼ neck size minus 2 cm; draw in front neck. Back and front sections are the same shape except for the neck curves.

15-16     ½ measurement 0-3; square across.

15-17     Sleeve length required; square across.

15-18     Measurement of diagonal line from 11-12 on body section plus 2.5 cm; square down to 19.

18-20     ¼ measurement 18-15. Draw in sleeve head, 18-20 curve in 0.75 cm; 20-15 curve out 2 cm.

19-21     4 cm; join 18-21 with a curve.

ADAPTATION USING EASY FITTING BLOCK

Back and front Trace round body section. Widen neck on back and front; 2 cm at A, 2.5 cm at B and C, 0.5 cm at D. Extend shoulder 4 cm to E and F, join to armhole with curve. Cut 4 cm strip from each shoulder. Add seam allowance to shoulder line of body sections, add 2 cm hem allowance.

Shoulder strap Remove 1 cm from shoulder seams B-E and C-E, Draw vertical line; place straps to line at points B, E, F, G, Add seam allowance to outer edges.

Sleeve Trace sleeve to required length mark 15, 18, 15 G is 4 cm, draw a curve from G to 18 as shown.

Add 2 cm hem allowance.