The Trouser Block – Parallels

Measurements required to draft the be draft the block

(e.g. 102 cm seat) Young Men’s Sizes

Refer to the size chart (page 11) for standard measurements.

Seat                                         102 cm

Waist                                         82 cm

Body rise                                    27 cm

Inside leg measurement               81 cm

Trouser bottom width                 25 cm

Waistband depth (e.g. uses 4 cm waistband).

A 1 cm seam allowance is included in the block. There is no hem allowance.

Special Note:    Standard trousers have the top of the waistband placed on the natural waistline. For trousers which sit below the natural waistline, see instructions for waistbands (ref. 6, page 88). The waistband depth must be decided before starting the draft.

Topside

Square down and across from 0.

0-1       Body rise plus 1cm minus waistband depth; square across.

1-2       Inside leg measurement; square across.

2-3       ½ measurement 1-2 plus 5 cm; square across.

1-4       ¼ body rise measurement; square across.

1-5       1/12 seat measurement plus 1.5 cm; square to 6 on seat line, 7 on waistline.

6-8       ¼ seat measurement plus 2 cm.

5-9       1/16 seat measurement plus 0.5 cm.

7-10     1 cm.

Draw in for curve 9, 6, 10 as shown in diagram.

10-11   ¼ waist plus 2.5 cm

2  -12   ½ bottom width.

2 -13    ½ bottom width.

Square up from 12 and 13 to 14 and 15 at knee line Draw in side seam through points 11, 8, 14, 12. cm hipline outwards 0.5 cm, 8 – 14 inwards 0.5 cm.

Draw in inside leg 9, 15, 13, Curve 9-15 inwards.

Underside

5  – 16 ¼ measurement 1-5; square up to 17 on the seat line and 18 on the waistline.

19        Midway between 16 -18.

18 – 20 2 cm.

20 – 21 1 cm.

  9 – 22 ½ measurement 5-9 plus 0.5 cm.

22 – 23 0.5 cm.

Draw in back fork 23, 19, 21 as shown in diagram.

21 – 24 ¼ waist plus 4.5 cm.

25        Midway between 21 and 24; square down from this line. Construct a dart on the line 12 cm long, 2.5 cm wide.

17 -26  ¼ seat  measurement plus 3 cm.

17 – 27 2 cm.

12 -27  2 cm.

13 – 28 2cm.

14 – 29 2 cm.

15 – 30 2 cm.

Draw in side seam through points 24, 26, 29, 27. Curve hem line of trousers down 1 cm as in diagram.

If an easy fitting seat line is required, include a seat wedge of 3.5 cm (ref 5, page 86), in the back crutch line.

Note    on large size (above 110 cm seat ) It is bottom taper the trouser leg to the hem line.