The Classic Shirt Block – Body and Sleeve Sections

MEASUREMENTS REQUIRED TO DRAFT THE BLOCK 

(e. g. 40 cm neck size, 100 cm chest) athletic Figure Refer to the size chart (page 10) for standard measurements, or the size chart (page 12) for SMALL, MEDIUM, LARGE, XLARGE sizing.

Neck size                                40 cm

Chest                                     100 cm

Scye depth                             24.4 cm

Natural waist length                  44.6 cm

Half back                                 20 cm

Sleeve length for shirts              89 cm

Shirt length                               81 cm

Cuff size                                   2.3 cm 

A 1 cm seam allowance is included in the block.

For mass production. After drafting the block it is usual to reduce the 1 cm seam allowance to 0.5 cm on all enclosed seams.

Easy Fitting Classic Shirt

If an easy fitting shirt is required use the measurements shown in brackets.

Body section

Square both ways from 0.

0-1       Scye depth plus 4 cm (7cm); square across.

0-2       Natural waist length plus 3 cm; square across

0-3       Shirt length plus 8 cm; square across

1-4       ½ chest plus 12 cm (16 cm);square up to 5 and down to 6 on hem line

0-7       1/5 neck size minus 0.5 cm; square up.

7-8       4.5 cm; drawn in neck curve.

0-9       1/5 measurement 0-1 plus 2 cm; square out.

9-10     ½ back plus 4 cm (5cm); square down to 11 on scye depth line and up to 12;

12-13   0.75 cm; join 8-13 with slight curve.

10-14   10 cm

1-16     ½ measurement 1-4 plus 0.5 cm; square down to 17 and 18.

5-19     4.5 cm; square out

19-20   1/5 neck size minus 1 cm

19-21   1/5 neck size minus 2.5 cm; draw in neck curve.

10-22   1.5 cm; square out

20-23   The measurement 8-13 plus 0.5 cm; join 20-23 with slightly curved line.

1-24     1/3 chest plus 4.5 cm (7.5 cm)

24-25   Square up 3 cm from 24; join 23-25

23-26   ½ measurement 23-25

Draw in armhole shape through points 13, 10, 16, 25, 23 curve inwards 1 cm at 26.

21-27   1.5 cm button stand; square down.

27-28   3.5 cm facing; square down; shape top edge at neckline.

17-29   2cm

17-30   2cm

18-31   20 cm; square across

31-32   1 cm

31-33   1cm; draw inside seams

34        Midway between 6-18; square up

35        Midway between 3-18

34-36   4 cm; square across to front edge.

Draw shaped curves as shown from 33-35 and 32-36. if please are required at the back yoke line, 9-37 is 2 cm; square down

Sleeve

Square down from 0.

0-1       ¼ arm scye measurement; square across. Measure outer edge of body block (see

            diagram on page 25, measuring a curve).

0-2       Sleeve length plus 6 cm; minus cuff depth and yoke width (0-13); square across.

1-3       ½ measurement 1-2; square across

0-4       ½ arm scye measurement; square down to 5.

0-6       ½ arm scye measurement; square down to 7.

Divide 0-4 into four sections mark points 8,9,10.

Divide 0-6 into four sections mark points 11,12,13.

Draw in sleeve head; join 4-8, raise 1 cm at 9, 2 cm at 10, touch point 0, raise 1cm at 11, touch point 12, hollow 1cm at 13, joint to 6.

5-14     1/3 measurement 2-5

7-15     ¼ measurement 2-7

16        Midway 5-14; join 4-16          

17        Midway 7-15; join 6-17 draw in underarm seams as shown

18        Midway 2-14; square up 15 cm to 19

18-20   1 cm; join 2-14 with a curve

Cuff

Cuff size plus 4 cm… cuff depth plus 2 cm.

Collar

Construct shirt collar with stand (ref 3b, page 58). Depth of classic shirt collar and stand approx. 8 cm.