Jeans Jacket

Body sections Trace off the “Flat Jacket Block” Extend to the length required. Mirror the front block to create separate sections.

Mark A at the centre front hem line.

A –B 2cm, Draw a curved line from point B to the side seam line. Add 2.5cm button stand. Mark button point on centre front line 1.75 cm below hem. Mark top bottom point 2cm from top. Divide the distance for a five button fastening.

Remove 2cm from front shoulder add to back shoulder line: place shoulder fitting lines together to make sure the neck is drawn accurately (ref page 127).

Draw in front and back yoke line; mark points C, D, E, F. 

C-G is ¼ measurements C-D; square down. Shape in back seam and side seam as required (example shown).

F-H is half the measurement E-F minus 1cm. H-I and H-J is 4.25 cm; square down. Shape in front seams and side seam as required (example shown).

Draw in tip pocket flap and pocket bag.

Draw in facing line.

Draw in side pocket positions and pocket bag shape.

Mark point K on the original shoulder point.

Collar and facing

Construct the draft for a standard collar (Reference 10c page 63). Trace of facing and complete (Ref. 1 page 52).

Front panels

Trace off front sections. Add seam allowance to front line, panel line, top lines and bottom lines.

Front yoke

Trace off front yoke. Add seam allowance to bottom edge, front edge and neck line.

Back

Trace of back Sections. Add seam allowance to panel lines, top lines, and bottom lines.

Back Yoke

Trace of back yoke. Add seam allowance to bottom edge and neck line.

Pockets

Trace of pocket flap and welt. Add seam allowance. Trace off pocket bags; and seam allowance.

Sleeves

Mirror sleeve, Shorten sleeve by 3.5 cm. Mark point L on top of sleeve head, M on hem. Measurement the distance D-K on body draft; L-N is the distance K-D plus 2 cm. M-P is 1/3 the distance M-O, P-Q = 1cm.

Mark tucks position.

Trace off Sleeve section.

Add seam allowance to back seam lines and bottom edge.

Waist band

Construct a Waist band 3.5 cm wide and the measurement of the lower edge of the jacket plus 2.5 cm button stand. Add seam allowance.

Cuff

Construct a cuff wide 3.5cm; length 29cm. Add seam allowance.

Tab

Construct a tab width 3cm; length 12 cm. Add seam allowance.