Definition and Functions of Pattern Grading

Pattern grading is the drafting process of enlarging or diminishing a style pattern into patterns for other sizes. The function of grading is to see that this is accomplished with proper fit for the other size without changing the style sense of the original model. If the style sense of the original model gave the wears an illusion if additional height and a slim silhouette, the same style sense must be present in the graded sizes. This is the important faced of grading.

Interpreting the Design before Grading

Apparel designs affect the physical and emotional characteristic of the wearer. These characteristics will be either enhanced, diminished, or completely altered. Before grading the pattern the grader should determine the function of the pattern with respect to (1) height (should the illusion increase or decrease height) (2) girth (should illusion ‘shim’ or ‘Pattern ‘  the wearer?) (3) spirit (are the lines of the original design supposed to make the wearer look old, young, Gary, quite reserved, flamboyant, conservative, or garish etc?). After this has been ascertained, the perspectives of the seam lines and the areas within the seam lines should be analyzed to determined the geometric balance in these factors which convey the style sense.

Determining Grading Measurements

 The first step in developing a table of measurements for pattern grading purposes is to make a study of anthropometric data available for the markets) in which the garment is to be sold. A size designation is merely an arbitrary title or number for a given compilation of anthropometric measurement are suitable for anyone whose measurements be within certain tolerance limits of the size measurements. The various military services of the united states have made many anthropometric studies of men and women in the services in order to size military uniforms and gear more accurately. The department of Agriculture also made anthropometric studies of men, women, and children. Most of these studies present a statistical analysis of anthropometric date by state or country. The statistical distribution for any set of anthropometric values in any age and sex may vary from locality to locality. This often makes grading table for a given age group in one locality unless for grading garments for the same age group in another geographic region. A grading table is a scale of correlated length and girth measurements for a range of sizes. Girth measurements with vary practically is all grading cattle’s for men, women, and children. In some men’s and women’s size tables all or some of the length measurements will be constant whereas in children wear, the length measurements will not be constant, whereas  in children’s wear, the length measurements will have a greater percentage of variance than in adult tables.