Designing Pattern

As fashions change the ideal body size and shape also changes; we have only to look back a few deadens to see a variety of fashionable silhouettes, form the shapeless, flat chased “flapper” of the twenties to the small wasted, shapely new look of the late forties. The pattern-cutter has to be aware of this fact and continually be changing the basic blocks from which he or she works.

Although the majority of today’s women wear little underwear or corsetry the pattern-cutting should always be aware of the nature of what is worn and how; if at all, does it affect the outline of the body to be fitted?

The British Standards Institute continually releases tables of measurement in order to reflect the size and proportion of the women of the day. Different clothing firms aim at particular markets, a fact which often influenced their selection of measurements.

After the basic techniques of flat pattern drafting have been mastered, the use of calico modeling on stands may also be introducing; either to test the flat patterns or by modeling directly on to the stand. Ideally both methods should be used in conjunction with each other to achieve the best results.