Producing a Pattern

Designing Pattern

As fashions change the ideal body size and shape also changes; we have only to look back a few deadens to see a variety of fashionable silhouettes, form the shapeless, flat chased “flapper” of the twenties to the small wasted, shapely new look of the late forties. The pattern-cutter has to be aware of this fact and continually be changing the basic blocks from which he or she works. Although the majority of today’s women wear little underwear or corsetry the pattern-cutting should always be aware of the nature of what is worn and how. If at all, does it affect the outline of the body to be fitted?

The British Standards Institute continually releases tables of measurement in order to reflect the size and proportion of the women of the day. Different clothing firms aim at particular markets, a fact which often influenced their selection of measurements.

After the basic techniques of flat pattern drafting have been mastered, the use of calico modeling on stands may also be introducing; either to test the flat patterns or by modeling directly on to the stand. Ideally both methods should be used in conjunction with each other to achieve the best results.

Pattern-cutting Requirements

The following items are required to enable the cutter to create clear, correct and accurate patterns;

Good quality white pattern paper.

Large sheets or roll of cardboard (for basic blocks)

A Perspex square with 45° and 90° markings as well as centime measurement.

A 15cm plastic ruler (useful for marking seam allowances)

A pair of sharp paper cutting scissors

A good-quality tape measure (with metal ends)

Clear sticky tape

A Soft rubber

3 H or 4H pencils (no softer) and pencil sharpener

Dress marker’s pins

Fine felt-tip pens or hard crayons (to outline ports of draft)

A meter stick

A tracing wheel would also be found useful, as would a dressmaker’s stamped

Although French curves are an easy method of drawing curved lines it is far better to achieve the skill of freehand drawing, which comes with practices.

Consumption Calculations