THE THICKNESS CHARACTERISTIC SCALE

METHOD

The fabrics used in the book were hung vertically and scanned on an A4 Sharp flat-bed scanner at 300 dpi. It was then possible to see the thickness of the fabrics and make accurate visual comparisons because the textural density is apparent. If a comparison of compressibility was required when cutting patterns a digimatic caliper was used manually to obtain general comparisons.

Shear

The amount of fabric shear (distorts in the warp and weft; see diagram) can be measured. Shear can be an advantage or disadvantage and the amount is important. The amount of recovery after strain is important. Closely woven fabrics with a high-shear characteristic (for example micro-fibre silk-like fabrics or some crepe weave fabrics) are very stable when used in crossway cutting. Open-weave high-shear fabrics distort if under strain. Many complicated luxury fabrics, particularly fabrics in linen, silk-and viscose, have this characteristic. Customers who buy them expect to take care of them. Fabrics will tailor more satisfactorily if there is some shear quality – it allows the tailor to shape the garment – but too much becomes a problem.