The ultimate goal for people how cut & sew is the Grain Perfection. Smart styling and a professional look in clothing construction require correct use of the grain of the fabric. No formula or method can conceal a poorly cut garment. Garment pieces cut or pulled off grain will not fit correctly and will hang [...]
Measurements Required To Draft The Be Draft The Block The sample illustrated is for athletic figure (102 seat). Refer to the size chart (page 11) for standard measurements.
The same applies to drilling sequence alignment. The drill or awl must be stroke vertical to the table in order to yield perfect super posed sequential alignment.
It refers to the precision with which the pattern perimeter is cut. Such defects, Whether under or over cut, are due to poor manual control of the cutting machine. The same applies to poor notching and drilling precision.
Are due basically due to heat Created by too great a knife speed. There are two types of edges fusion.
Although the capacity of an edge’s fraying depends in large measure on its construction and finishing but improper cutting tools can cause excess fraying in a pattern as the section is cut on the cutting table.
Cutting quality has following dimensions. 1) Frayed edge/pulled yarns 2) Fusion or scortched edge 3) Pattern precision (under or over cut) 4) Notches (size, placement and sequence alignment 5) Drilling (size, placement and sequence alignment)
1) Ply Alignment = length, width 2) Ply Tension = Stretch, slack, tight edge 3) Grain Alignment = 4) Splicing waste and precision 5) Damage placement economy of placement. 6) Surface direction 7) Static Elacity
Basic five-pocket jeans specifications are as under Inseam = 34 inch Out seam (Ex. W/B) = 44 inch Seat = 39 inch Waist = 32 inch Waist band height = 4 cm Wt. = 14 ounce Let we calculate the fabric consumption on Maxim length = 44 Seam allowance = 1.25 cm at waist Seam [...]
Get the maximum length & width of the garment; you can will calculate the square area of the fabric. Let we have to calculate consumption of fabric for one garment.
Static in spreading refers to the electrical charge generated in the fabric during the spreading process. If this charge remains in the fabric, the spread may be distorted by either the repelling of adjacent like charges or the attraction of adjacent unlike charges.
An error in the surface direction of a ply spoils the quality of all or some of the cut components with respect to either nap or fabric design.
The quality of damage placement in a spread is measured by the economy with which damages are removed from the plies during the spreading. This often calls for changing the ply sequence and/or placement of fabric section containing the damage.
Splicing refers to the overlapping of two ends in a ply consisting of two or more pieces. This occurs when damage in the fabric must be cut out or when two or more bolts are spread consecutively as one both (no shade difference).
Bowing is the angular distortion of the filling yarns in its traverse across the warp yarns. This places conflicting stresses in the fabric. These stresses create variations of slack and tightness in the spread.
A tight-edge spread is one in which one edge of the cloth has a higher filling or course counter than the opposite edge. This is due to faulty finishing in the fabric, whereas tight or slack spreads are due to faulty spreading method.
A slack spread possesses excess length within the stipulated ends of the spread. Billows and ridges on the surface of the spread are indications of slackness.
Practically all spreads should be made without tension or slack. A tight spread is one in which the plies have been stretched during the spreading process. Such a spread will contract its length after spreading. It will contract during the time the spread lies waiting to be cut and during the chopping processing on the [...]
A centered spread is one in which the plies are spread with their longitudinal centers superposed in a vertical line. In a perfect quality spread of this type both side edges of every ply are equidistant from the lengthwise center of the spread. Width alignment refers to the superposing precision at the sides of the [...]
A straight-edge spread has all the ply edges on one side of the spread superposed perfectly in a vertical line. The ply edge alignment on the other side of the spread may not be superposed in a vertical to the table. This will depend on the variations in cloth width among the bolts of fabrics [...]
Spreading quality must be measured with respect to the following factors
Trouser is a difficult garment to draft and to ensure a perfect fit. This is because the shape of women around the hip line varies enormously. For different figures see page 26 for special alterations. To abstain a good fit around the ham (buttocks), choose a fabric with some elasticity in the fiber content (i.e. [...]
Back and front Trace round body section. Widen neck on back and front; 2 cm at A, 2.5 cm at B and C, 0.5 cm at D. Extend shoulder 4 cm to E and F, join to armhole with curve. Cut 4 cm strip from each shoulder. Add seam allowance to shoulder line of body [...]
The blacks are drafted for jersey fabric or to be used as base patterns for knitwear. The first instructions given are for close fitting tee shirts or standard knitwear: the instructions in brackets are the extra measurements required to construct blocks for easy fitting tee shirts and knitwear.
Measurements required to draft the be draft the block (e.g. 102 cm seat) Young Men’s Sizes Refer to the size chart (page 11) for standard measurements.
MEASUREMENTS REQUIRED TO DRAFT THE BLOCK (e. g. 40 cm neck size, 100 cm chest) athletic Figure Refer to the size chart (page 10) for standard measurements, or the size chart (page 12) for SMALL, MEDIUM, LARGE, XLARGE sizing.
Body sections Trace off the “Flat Jacket Block” Extend to the length required. Mirror the front block to create separate sections.
After the completion of the cutting process the spread is first sorted out in respect of different sizes and the components of the pattern and than these sorted out components are handled according to the production policy and the needs of the plant.
There are two types of spreads with respect to alignment:- i) Straight edge (ii) Centered.
After the grading table has been complex from a study of the anthropometric data available for the market of the product, the actual grade drafting of the style pattern must be carried out without decreasing the variation to a larger size or increasing the difference to a smaller size. A wearer of either graded size [...]
The first step in developing a table of measurements for pattern grading purposes is to make a study of anthropometric data available for the markets) in which the garment is to be sold. A size designation is merely an arbitrary title or number for a given compilation of anthropometric measurement are suitable for anyone whose [...]
Apparel designs affect the physical and emotional characteristic of the wearer. These characteristics will be either enhanced, diminished, or completely altered. Before grading the pattern the grader should determine the function of the pattern with respect to (1) height (should the illusion increase or decrease height) (2) girth (should illusion ‘shim’ or ‘Pattern ‘ the [...]
Pattern grading is the drafting process of enlarging or diminishing a style pattern into patterns for other sizes. The function of grading is to see that this is accomplished with proper fit for the other size without changing the style sense of the original model. If the style sense of the original model gave the [...]
When measuring curves use the tape measure on its edge. Accurate, clear lines are essential, and these can only be achieved with the use of hard sharp pencils; sharpened with a pencil sharpener, not a knife. ketchy lines have no place in pattern cutting.
If you wish to work without seam allowances during pattern adaptation, construct the blocks following the instructions, then cut off the seam allowances where marked. You will be able to follow the pattern procedures in the book, but you must ignore any instruction that tells you to add seam allowance, and ignore the shaded sections [...]
Inlays are extra material allowed on some seams in case an alternation is necessary. They are always allowed on garments cut for individual customers (bespoke tailoring). Most manufacturers allow inlays on certain seams.
A 1cm seam allowance is allowed on the blocks except where stated no seam allowance. Therefore if a seam is required at the centre back or side seam of the casual blocks or over garment blocks, seam allowance must be added. The fitting line on the blocks is marked with a dotted line, this shows [...]
The reasons for including seam allowances in the blocks and retaining them during pattern construction are discussed in the Special Note on page 4. It is recommended that the note be read before continuing with this section.
The following items are required to enable the cutter to create clear, correct and accurate patterns; Good quality white pattern paper. Large sheets or roll of cardboard (for basic blocks) A Perspex square with 45° and 90° markings as well as centime measurement. A 15cm plastic ruler (useful for marking seam allowances) A pair of [...]
As fashions change the ideal body size and shape also changes; we have only to look back a few deadens to see a variety of fashionable silhouettes, form the shapeless, flat chased “flapper” of the twenties to the small wasted, shapely new look of the late forties. The pattern-cutter has to be aware of this [...]
A student should aim to acquire a good set of equipment. However, some items are very expensive. The items marked with an asterisk denote those that are not essential immediately. Working Surface: A flat working surface is required. However, a tracing wheel will mark any polished or laminated top therefore some protection must be given [...]
The analysis in this book is made using only the fabric swatch piece (most fabric swatch pieces are on cards about A4 in size). This means that a square of 20cm can be cut from the swatch. The sample swatch may be all that is available to a designer before purchasing a sample length. Each [...]
The term ‘characteristic’ is used because it is a descriptive term. In many textile books the words ‘characteristic’ and ‘property’ are used as if they can be interchanged. The latter should be used to relate to fundamental chemical or biological property and in the context of broad design and garment shape decisions, the term characteristic [...]
S.N Terms Description 1. Appliqué Sewing a piece of fabric atop another after folding under a small bit of the fabric to create a clean edge. When done by machine, many use a satin stitch (tight zigzag). By hand, blind stitching is often used. 2. Backstitch Used at the beginning and end of a machine [...]
To draft a form fitting pattern for the human form, it would first be necessary to determine the geometric structure of the body surface. The geometry of the male form can be outlined in the following terms: Thorax area (neck to waist)- an inverted right elliptical truncated cone. Seat area (waist to leg crotch)- an [...]
The first step in producing a garment is the creation of the design and the construction of patterns for the components in the design. Good apparel design has three parameters emotional appeal (style), utility and durability. It is comparatively easy to measure utility and durability objectively. The apparel manufacturer measures style objectively with a relative [...]
Every apparel and allied product must satisfy the consumer to some degree in each of three areas:- 1) Style or emotional appeal; (2) durability and (3) utility (functional aspect). These three factors are the elements which comprise the compound known in the apparel and allied industry as “quality”. There are two types of problems, qualitative [...]
Definition of Designer, Stylist, Pattern Maker These three terms are not synonymous, although one may function in all three capacities. The stylist set a trend. Sloped shoulders, nipped in waistlines, raised or lowered hemlines and definite color combinations are examples of style trends. The designer creates specific products in accordance with the trend. The pattern [...]
Any examination of men’s garments in retail outlets in 1989 shows clearly that the recommendations on sizing and labeling, particularly the pictogram, have not been accepted with any enthusiasm by manufacturers. Most British garment sizing is still based on the imperial system (two inch size intervals). The multiple retailers are size labeling in inches but [...]
Block Patterns A back is a foundation pattern constructed to fit a specific figure. A block can be drafting to fit an individual figure using personal measurements. For this method see page 124. In the clothing industry the blocks are constructed to the standard (average) measurements for specific group of men e.g. young men, regular [...]